In-set, side pockets, call them what you will…

So who doesn’t love a pocket?

So many things lack pockets.  It’s yet another reason for making your own wardrobe.

I’ve made several pencil skits recently and due to the shape, this has not helped in the pocket department.  The occasional back pocket is  really as far as I can go without looking like a strangely shaped being.

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So when I made the Kiera skirt from Simple Sew Patterns it seemed the perfect opportunity to put one in.  I say one because the zip is in the side, zips and pockets can be done but not without time to do it properly.  Maybe next time…

When you decide to put a pocket into a skirt or dress that doesn’t include one, you need to draw up a pattern to make sure that it’s the right size and is shaped correctly for the spot.  The pocket is put in before you do the side seam.

20161015_162547Lay your pattern paper of choice over your pattern and mark where you want the pocket to sit.  My pocket is to go into the waistband so I drew from there.  I like to place my hand in to make sure it’s big enough (nothing worse than half size pockets) and make a few marks before drawing the side to match the pattern line. Make a soft curve from the waist seam to the side seam, making sure that the pocket is deep enough so that things don’t just fall out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next I cut out a pair of pocket pieces.  If the fabric’s quite bulky I tend to use lining for the pocket piece that’s going to be facing the skirt front.

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I lay each pocket onto the side of the skirt, matching up the top of the waist.  Then pin and stitch down the pocket, about 1cm from the bottom of the pocket and taking  in 1cm seam allowance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Next I’ll snip diagonally towards the stitch line where I’ve started or finished stitching the pocket on.  This will make it easier to bring the pocket together and avoid an awkward corner.

 

 

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I overlock the side keeping this little snippet from being caught. I do this on both sides, front and back.

 

 

 

I then like to edge stitch the facing pocket down.  Press the seam allowance towards the pocket and stitch close to the edge of the seam.  I tend to use my blind hem foot for this, It sits nicely in the groove of the seam.  Again I don’t stitch right down to the bottom of the pocket so that we keep the end free.  (I don’t appear to have taken a photo of that bit, Sorry)

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Once both pocket pieces are stitched on, I place them together matching the shape and any notches.  I also match up the seam lines of the pockets to make sure the seam allowance is the same.

 

You can just see the edge stitch on the facing pocket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20161015_172414Then I’ll pin the pocket together matching it up and stitch around the pocket bag. Pull back the seam allowances, because you’ve snipped the seam you should be able to get right into the end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20161015_175354Next I overlock the seam together.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I then pin together along the side seam and stitch down to the point that you want the pocket to start opening.  Leave a gap big enough for your hand to get in and then continue down to the hem of the skirt.

Fold the pocket to the front and continue with your pattern.

Your skirt just got even more useful.  Please tell me I’m not the only one that needs the occasional pocket…